Welcome to LRN2DIY! We’re Nils and Katrina. We’ve been married for a long time. We have 4 ever-growing kiddos, 1 annoying dog, and a house and yard with projects galore. Our penchant for DIY began when we were engaged and looking for wedding invitations; when the salesperson at the stationery store told us the prices, we excused ourselves and never returned. We knew we could figure out a way to print and assemble invites on our own, and that’s what we did. I asked a co-worker with a camera to take our engagement pictures, and she agreed to be paid in Taco Bell. It worked out nicely for all. This was before doing things this way was semi-normal, so we’re basically trend-setters. We were also starving students for a really long time, which made made DIYing a necessity; now it’s just who we are!

Nils has a genuine need to be creative and productive at all times. He loves a project, and can figure out how to build or fix just about anything (except cars). By day, he’s a web developer, and by night and weekend, he’s a YouTuber and DIYer. He’s way funnier in real life than he is in his videos. He has about 12 million hobbies. He’s a service-oriented fella, and is really happy when his videos help someone out!

I’m Katrina, the writer behind this site. I realized a few years ago that building and creating are necessary for Nils to be happy, so I try to be supportive and use it to my advantage to get things done around here! I’m a full time mom, enjoy cooking and baking, a good conversation, and a good workout. I also hate crafting, but admire and aspire to be like those who love it. I think most things can be funny, and hope to inject some humor around here.

 

28 Comments

  1. John Wyman

    February 15, 2016 at 3:59 pm

    Hello Nils, I enjoy your blog and am too a serious fixer. It’s too bad I never kept a list of all the things fixed here, items that others would have thrown away. (That’s the engineer in me).

    You had an entry about “How to Fix / Repair the Hook Timing on a Sewing Machine” for the Singer 6215c Sewing Machine. I’ve tried really hard to find out how to remove the carrying handle, to get at the top of this 1984 machine. Cannot find anything. Do you have any guidelines to do this. I can get the top loose, but the handle is in the way..

    To help you, I figured out how to free up the Reverse Button on this machine. Note that I really messed up and never did any maintenance on it (really not my style actually). This button was stuck in reverse. Firsts remove the bottom panel, opening access up to the middle. The whole issue is oiling of the sliding lever controlling this button. Works great now. My mother-in-law says that I would go around her house with an oil can, fixing lots of things. That’s probably true.

    Can you help here? Really enjoy your approach and blog. Well done!!

    Reply
    • nilsynils@gmail.com

      September 8, 2016 at 1:58 am

      Hi John, believe it or not I’m just now seeing your message. It had gone to my spam box so I apologize for that. Does your Singer 6215c look like the one in the video or is it different. Honestly, that’s the only one I have any experience with. I’m hoping you’ve made some good progress on it by now. Let me know and thanks for the stopping by the site!

      Reply
    • Daniel Cox

      February 20, 2018 at 3:13 am

      Are you in the states

      Reply
      • Daniel Cox

        February 20, 2018 at 3:16 am

        I mean nothing by this post just wondering, because if you did your own electrical work. did you have it permitted by a contracted electrician.

        Reply
        • Nils

          February 20, 2018 at 11:36 am

          Hey Daniel, no problem at all. Since you commented on the “about us” page, I’m not sure which project you’re referring to but I work with electricians on anything major but not on small things that don’t require a permit or an electrician’s help, like the TV wires or adding the outlet behind the TV.

          Reply
  2. Chuck Tampir

    October 6, 2016 at 6:36 am

    Hello Nils,
    I have watched many of you videos.
    I am also a DIYer.
    However I have an edge, I have 35 years in the construction area.
    My specialty is electrical design.
    I though perhaps I might be of some value to you.
    Please let me know if you are interested.
    My e-mail address is ctampir@live.com.
    I would very much enjoy working with you.
    Thank you,
    Chuck Tampir
    Senior Design Consultant

    Reply
  3. Chuck Tampir

    October 6, 2016 at 6:39 am

    Hello Nils,
    I have watched many of you videos.
    I am also a DIYer.
    However I have an edge, I have 35 years in the construction area.
    My specialty is electrical design.
    I though perhaps I might be of some value to you.
    Please let me know if you are interested.
    I would very much enjoy working with you.
    Thank you,
    Chuck Tampir
    Senior Design Consultant

    Reply
  4. John Pickering

    August 6, 2017 at 10:24 pm

    Hi Nils, I came across your website, in particular the kitchen table, its perfect for what i need. My only concern was with the plans, can you be more detailed about the table top? Especially the details about the 2×4 end caps and 2×2 side caps: how they were placed on the table top, and dimensions. PS: your video is very professional, yet down to earth. Keep up the great work and Im sure Ill be using your other plans soon.

    Reply
    • Nils

      August 8, 2017 at 9:44 pm

      Hey John, thanks for visiting. On the end caps, I’m not sure I’d honestly recommend them. The problem is that the wood will shrink and expand more in one direction than the other, which means that while the table top may move a bit in one direction, the end cap will, by virtue of being perpendicular to the rest of the top, will move in the other direction. On my table this has resulted in a bit of a lip. Nothing huge, but not what I hoped for. I’d recommend leaving the wood out for several weeks first, or possibly omitting the end cap altogether. I had attached it with glue and brads at first, followed up with some pocket hole screws from the bottom side.

      As for the side skirts, it’s just a 2×4 ripped in half and then glued, tacked and screwed onto the table top. I countersunk all of the screws and that one worked out pretty well. If you have any specific questions, just let me know. The end cap dimensions are 3’6″ W x 3″ H x 1.5″ D. The side skirts are 7’9″ W x 1.5″ H x 1.5″ D.

      Reply
      • Steve

        November 6, 2017 at 6:16 pm

        I used 2 x 4’s all the way around for the skirt and cut them at a 45 on the end, glued and finish nail throughout the perimeter. Just finished the table yesterday and I’ll update if anything abnormal happens.

        Reply
  5. CentOS

    September 13, 2017 at 12:06 pm

    Hello,

    What tv mount and floating shelf are these?
    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=pe6H9sZMkhA

    Reply
  6. Steve

    November 6, 2017 at 6:12 pm

    Just finished building the farm table, it came out beautiful. Would lover to share some photos.

    Reply
    • Nils

      November 6, 2017 at 9:18 pm

      That’s awesome, Steve! I’d love to see how it turned out! If you have a Facebook, Twitter or Instagram account, you can post photos there with the hashtag #LRN2DIY or you can post to my timeline. If you don’t do social media or would prefer not to post there, just let me know and I’ll let you know how to send the photos to me so I an post them on the article page here. Thanks!

      Reply
  7. Jeff Martin

    December 16, 2017 at 11:47 pm

    Hey Nils,

    Here’s our table. We took your plans and modified them a bit to meet what mama was looking for. We ended up going 10′ long. This thing is huge. For ease, we took a sheet of 4×8 plywood and added a 2′ section in the middle to lengthen it. We sandwiched two pieces together for thickness, and added the 2′ piece on the end of the bottom sheet. Glue/screw, and we were set. Once we got it together, I wasn’t totally satisfied with the side to side sway. Had a bit, and I wanted to be able to dance on this thing if I was inspired. Took it all apart and added those diagonal braces between the two main beams. Now my whole family can dance on it if we wanted.

    Great Thanksgiving weekend project with my father at his home. Really enjoyed the time working with him again. Feel free to do anything you want with these photos. I’m not really a social media guy and have never hashtagged anything before. Thanks for the inspiration!

    Jeff Martin
    Queen Creek, AZ

    Dining Table

    Dining Table

    Dining Table

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/DceMWNwKTxULbhOu1
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/F51dsj6ct0I8nfbE3
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/wW8hezTS1JjROHFD3

    Reply
    • Nils

      December 17, 2017 at 12:01 am

      Hey Jeff, your table came out awesome! I really like the mods you made and the finish as well. Thanks so much for sharing with us!

      Reply
  8. Kevin

    December 27, 2017 at 4:03 am

    Hi there. I visited your site for your planter plans and got a message saying “The site you are trying to visit (www.lrn2diy.com) may include malware, phishing attempts, or disturbing content.” I’m a WordPress developer. Let me know if you want a little pro bono assistance figuring that out. Happy to help.

    Reply
    • Nils

      February 20, 2018 at 11:53 am

      Hey Kevin, sorry for the delay and thanks for the heads up. If you’re still seeing that warning, please let me know so I can look into it. I haven’t heard that from anyone else or experienced that but if it’s happened to you, it likely happened to others. Thanks!

      Reply
  9. Kevin Wade

    December 30, 2017 at 2:12 am

    Nils,

    I’d like to chat with you about helping us with a cool project that you’ll be very excited about. . . .

    Would you please email me your contact information, phone number, and a good time we can chat.

    Thank you!

    Regards,
    Kevin Wade

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    Reply
  10. Dave Hoffman

    January 2, 2018 at 10:39 pm

    Hi Nils. I am looking at making your Pottery Barn table but wanted to check if the base is pressure treated douglas fir? I had assumed it was not but Home Depot and Lowes near me only carry PT or cedar posts in those sizes. Please let me know.

    Reply
    • Nils

      February 20, 2018 at 11:48 am

      Sorry for the long delay – I just now saw your message. I didn’t used PT wood but I know that the selection in hardware stores around the country (and in other countries) varies greatly so sometimes you have to find something else, or glue boards together. My brother in Mexico is using a smaller sized lumber for this table and adjusting the dimensions and cuts slightly based on what he has access to, for example.

      Reply
  11. Jean

    March 26, 2018 at 11:35 am

    Hey Nils,

    You are the best. Thanks a million for sharing this project on your YouTube channel. This is a 2 weeks project that paid off today.

    Again, thank u!

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    Reply
  12. Lost and need help

    May 11, 2018 at 10:17 pm

    Hello,

    I’ve watched your YouTube videos, and they’re really helpful.

    I’ve mounted a tv using drywall studs in my high rise apartment. I am now trying to hide the cords. I bought a kit from the Home Depot that I think I actually saw on your channel. Problem is, I think my walls are really thick – I think they are a thick plaster wall. So I’m using my hole saw to try to be able to run cords through the wall, but the scrap that I’m drilling with the hole saw isn’t disconnecting from the wall if that makes sense. I know there’s some air back there somewhere (I accessed it to put in the drywall mounts), but I’m scared I’m going to drill a very large hole saw hole into my neighbors wall if I go much further. How do you r commend I get the thick plaster out?
    Help!

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    Reply
    • Nils

      August 8, 2018 at 9:04 pm

      Hello there, Lost and need help 🙂 I’m sorry I didn’t see your comment until now. I assume you got this worked out by now but I’d recommend using a sturdy slotted/flat head screwdriver to pry away the sheets you have so far and then keep going. It would be highly unlikely that there is nothing between you and your neighbors but a couple of sheets of drywall – they need framing to attach to. Make sure to always use a stud finder before you drill, too. Did this work out for you? I’d love to hear how things went. All the best to you!

      Reply
  13. Carol

    August 7, 2018 at 1:22 am

    I have a tip for your tips on caulking. After you cut the angle of the tube, make a straight cut across the tube. With the straight cut you have a built in putty knife to smooth out the caulking and the corner edges leave a score mark if any seeps out beyond the sides of the tube. After the caulking dries you can peel or scrap the dried caulking to the score line. Using this technique eliminates the need for tape or smoothing with your finger since the flat cut has done this for you.

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  14. John

    August 8, 2018 at 7:56 pm

    Nils
    Love the DIY dining table and plan on making my own off of your plans. I am confused when I read the cut list as it shows to cut four 1ft x 9inches. They look much longer than that. My wife is short but not that shout. Please advise.
    Thank you

    Reply
    • Nils

      August 8, 2018 at 9:00 pm

      Hey John, that measurement is actually correct. That’s the height of the legs of the “H”. The “H” also sits on top of a 4×6, and then has another 4×6 on top of it, then the table top. Add those all up and it comes out to 30″.

      Reply
  15. George Towler

    August 21, 2018 at 11:09 pm

    Hi
    I saw your 13 tips to 3d printing and being a total nuwb I couldn’t follow some of it. In particular the raft. How is the thing your making detached from the raft?

    Thanks from the emerald isle.

    Reply
    • Nils

      August 21, 2018 at 11:41 pm

      Hey George,
      The raft is attached loosely to the print in the same way that supports are attached. There’s a very fine connection and they can be broken away with minimal impact or remnants. I very rarely do rafts and almost always get by just fine with a brim or skirt.

      Reply

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