How to Hide Your TV Wires in 30 Minutes

We all love our flat screen TV’s, don’t we? Such a nice, low profile up on the wall! What we don’t love, however, are those ugly wires that hang down and create an eye sore. Hiding those ugly wires is easy, so fear not.

This post is sponsored by DataComm Electronics. They provided me with a professional installation kit, all other equipment is my own.

DISCLAIMER: This installation process is for drywall only. If you have brick, concrete, or otherwise solid walls, this process will not work. I suggest using a piece of cable channeling instead to hide those wires.

The first thing you need to do is remove your TV from the wall, as well as any wires or plugs. Make sure you have a clean space to work with. Figure out where your studs are using a stud finder. Typically, studs are 16” apart, and you’ll want to work within the empty space (called a bay) between studs.

After you’ve marked where your studs are, mark with the template included in the kit where you want your top and bottom receptacles to go. The receptacles need to be in the open bay between studs, because the wings/tabs on them attach to the drywall, and the stud will get in the way of them. Also, the top and bottom receptacle should be in the same bay as one another. Use a level to make sure the template is straight.

In the middle of the piece you have marked to cut out, attach a screw and use it as a handle, so when you’ve cut all the way around the piece, it doesn’t fall into the wall. Use a jab saw to cut out the square. You can also use a utility knife; score around the square until you get all the way through. Make sure to hold onto the handle as you cut the last side of drywall!

Optional: Some people are concerned about critters getting in the walls and chewing through the wires, or you may want to just make it easier to pass new wires between the top and bottom receptacles later on. I used a 6 ft bilge and pump discharge hose for this. It’s sealed all the way around, and has sections to cut it to size with regular scissors. You can run the low voltage wires through the hose. Connect the hose to the top receptacle using white electrical tape if you’d like.

Make sure the tabs/wings are in first so the receptacle fits in the hold. Drop the electrical wire down as well as the AV tube.I would recommend feeding your A/V wires through the tube at this point. Put the bottom portion of the receptacle in first. It may be a little tight, but will swing in. Once it’s in, use a screwdriver to tighten the wings and attach to the drywall. Pull everything through the bottom hole.

Bottom receptacle: Coil the wires, and push them through the box to keep them contained; then push them with push in connectors, matching each wire with its counterpart (white/white, black/black, green/ground). Push the wires into the box, and use screws to fasten the box to the bottom receptacle. Attach pipe onto the bottom piece with tape.

To install into the wall, put the electrical side of the box into the wall first. Make sure the wings/tabs are in. Push the left side in first to make the right side fit nicely. Tighten with a screwdriver. Drop A/V cables down the tube (if you haven’t already), and plug power into outlet.

PRO TIP: The hose may get jammed when trying to fish the wires through. To help with this, just pop out the top receptacle. Even a flimsy wire will go through the tube.

When you’re done, you should end up with an outlet up top (behind the TV) and you A/V cables spanning between the top and bottom receptacles, ready to plug into the TV and you components!

It should be noted that you can perform this install in an insulated wall as well, just as easily. At a friend’s house, I used the single outlet installation kit from DataComm to do their install in an insulated wall.

 

The trick to pulling your wires through the insulated wall is to use a measuring tape and feed it from the bottom opening through to the top. Once it’s through, you can either tape your wires to the end of it and pull it back through or tape a hose/pipe to it and pull that through, which will make future wire pulling much easier.

When you’re done, you should have a sweet, clutter-free wall under your TV. W00t W00t!

I’ve done a similar install in another room in my house using simple open ended face plates and then manually installing an additional outlet. I have to say, using the kit was way easier and faster. The installation at my friend’s house took 30 minutes, including the time it took to shove one of those humungoid original XBOX A/V plugs through the receptacle (it barely fit).

Got any questions, comments or suggestions? Leave a comment below and let us know what you think.

Check out the video of the install here:

 

How to Resize a Watch or Adjust a Metal Watch Band

how to resize a watch

Project Time: 20 Minutes • Project Cost: $0-7USD • Project Difficulty: Easy

How to resize a watch

Watch band too big? Here are two ways to get that sweet new time piece fitting perfectly in no time.

Method 1: The Ghetto-licious Way (It’s how we do)

The first method uses items you have around the house and just takes a few minutes.

You’ll Need:

  • Hammer
  • Push Pin
  • Needle Nose Pliers (could be regular pliers, or even tweezers possibly)
  • Scrap wood (a surface to thwack on [yes, that’s the technical term])

Step 1: Put the watch on and determine how many (and which) links you’ll want to remove. You might want to mark the links with some tape so you don’t get them mixed up. Remember to keep things centered; if you need to remove four links, take two from either side.

how to resize a watch - line up the band

Step 2: Place the watch on the wooden block or scrap so that the link that you want to remove is either over a hole in the block or hanging just off the edge.

how to resize a watch - thwack the pushpin

Step 3: Line the push pin up with the first pin that you’ll be removing, then give it a good thwack. You may need to hit it a couple of times but the goal is to get it to peek out the other side, enough that you can get a hold of it with the pliers/tweezers.

how to resize a watch - remove the pinStep 4: On the other side, pull the pin all the way out. Put the pin somewhere safe where you won’t lose it.

Step 5: Take out all of the links you need to.

how to resize a watch - the resized watchStep 6: Now for the glorious finish! Line the trimmer watch band back up and put the pins in part way until you can get them to line up perfectly. A couple more thwacks with the  hammer and you’re good to go! Check both sides to make sure the pins are flush in the band. Pokey pins snag on everything.

If you are feeling wealthy and have a few days’ notice before you have to adjust your new watch, check out method #2.

Method 2: The ‘Tim “The Toolman” Taylor’ Way

If you’re not comfortable thwacking push-pins, it’s time to buy a nice little Watch Link Remover Tool (about $6 USD) or even a Watch Repair Kit (about $7 USD).  I’m linking to ones that are available for Amazon Prime because some of the really cheap ones take weeks to arrive.

Step 1: Refer to Step 1 above.

how to resize a watch with a link removal tool - line up the pinStep 2: Put the watch band in the remover tool and line the pin up with the knockout pin.

how to resize a watch with a link removal tool - push the pin outStep 3: Twist the handle to push the pins out, then pull them out the other side, freeing the links. Save those links – you might need them again after the holidays.

Step 4: Repeat for the other links you want to remove.

how to resize a watch with a link removal tool - reassemblyStep 5: After lining the watch back up, sans removed links, put the pins back in via the same method, just in reverse.

And you’re done! Nice job, you. You deserve a pat on the back. Wear that watch proudly because you made it fit. The video below shows the whole process, using both methods. I hope this was helpful and please feel free to comment, like, subscribe and share.