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DIY Kitchen / Dining Table – Pottery Barn Inspired

DIY Pottery Barn Inspired Dining Farmhouse Table

Ready to learn to make a gorgeous and sturdy farmhouse table from scratch? Use the plans below to build your own.

The Triangles: I’d recommend doing the triangles however you think looks best. If you want to know what size the triangles on my table feet are, they measure 9 3/4″ on the diagonal side (the longest side) x 3 1/2″ at the bottom x 9″ tall. I used 4×6 lumber to make these.

A quick note on the end caps. I’m not sure I’d honestly recommend them. The problem is that the wood will shrink and expand more in one direction than the other, which means that while the table top may move a bit in one direction, the end cap, by virtue of being perpendicular to the rest of the top, will move in the other direction. On my table this has resulted in a bit of a lip. Nothing huge, but not what I hoped for. I’d recommend leaving the wood out for several weeks first, or possibly omitting the end cap altogether. Another option is to create an end cap (for the lip) by cutting off 1.5″ from the table top and then attaching that to the bottom of the ends – to help match up the skirts. I attached the end caps with glue and brads at first, followed up with some pocket hole screws from the bottom side. If you’re just doing the skirt method, then I’d recommend screwing them in from the bottom using 2.5″ countersunk screws. The end cap dimensions (as shown in the plans) are 3’6″ W x 3″ H x 1.5″ D.

As for the side skirts, it’s just a 2×4 ripped in half and then glued, tacked and screwed onto the table top. I countersunk all of the screws and that one worked out pretty well. The side skirts are 7’9″ W x 1.5″ H x 1.5″ D.

Several people have asked about how I attached the base of the table to the tabletop, so I wanted to address that. I used 4 1/2″ lag bolts with washers and put them in six locations under the table – one on each corner of the two main legs, plus one in the center of the 2x4s that run the length of the base. To predrill, I started with a 7/8″ forstner bit, drilling just as deep as was necessary to hide the head of the bolt. From there, I used a 7/16″ bit to drill through about two inches in, then a 9/32″ bit to drill the rest of the 4 inches or so. Be careful not to drill too deep – you don’t want to drill right through the table top.

Drive the lag bolt in and let the washer stop you when it bottoms out. I think the six heavy duty bolts are enough but if you want to put more in, it couldn’t hurt.

Farmhouse Kitchen Table Woodworking Plans
Download your free woodworking plans for this rustic farmhouse dining table

DIY Pottery Barn Inspired Dining Table Video

Watch the video to see how it’s made! ^^





31 thoughts on “DIY Kitchen / Dining Table – Pottery Barn Inspired”

  1. Hey Nils my wife has been on me to build a kitchen table. I have been practicing making bookshelves and other little things to advance my carpentry skills. LOL so now I’m about to attempt to make your table. Thank you for these plans. Your YouTube video are some of the most detailed YouTube video and plans out there that I have seen. I will let you know how it works out. My skill level is, well to say I’m a Beginner is giving me too much credit.

    1. That’s awesome, Buck! This is a large project but it’s not particularly technical or challenging. If you have any questions along the way just let me know and I’ll be happy to help. Also, I’d love to see how it turns out when you’re done! Feel free to post pics to any of my social media accounts (@lrn2diy) or mention @lrn2diy in your own posts. Best of luck!

  2. I notice u put a hand planner in ur product list. What was it used on? I know it’s only for spot planning and rabbiting. I have a router for rabbiting. Do i still need the planner?

    1. The hand planer is not necessary, no. I used one when building the table so I included the link but you can absolutely do without it. Just sanding will get the job done.

  3. Beautiful table! Definitely want to give this a shot. Any chance you could help me modify the cut list for a 10 foot length?

    I’m looking to fit 10-12 people.

    Also any thoughts on matching benches?

  4. I love this table Nils and mywife jas asked if i could build her one. This will be my first woodworking project. Wayched the video loved it. I couldnt find out how to download the plans ; could you possibly point me in the right direction.

  5. Nils, what degree/angle are the cuts at the ends of the base pieces and how far did you measure up to start the cut. It looks like 45 degree angles started 2″ up but I want to make sure

  6. Great looking table! And the inst unction video was among the most detailed I have seen. Thank you!

    Question: how did you get Douglas Fir to work well with stain? I build a smaller table last year and I spent so much time trying to make Douglas Fir ( untreated from Home Depot) to accept stain. I finally tried gel-stain and after two coats, I came close to a desired look. How did you do it and what type of stain did you use?

    1. Hey Res, good question. I had very different results depending on how smooth the surface was. The base, which was really rough, drank up the stain and stayed dark right away. The top, which was sanded up through 220, if memory serves, took two coats to match the one coat on the bottom. I used the standard Minwax Special Walnut 224 stain. There’s a link to it at the bottom of the article. Might take several coats but it turns out really nice. Best of luck!

  7. Nils

    Are the detailed plans still available? The only thing I see to download is the one page cut list and general instructions


  8. Awesome Table! I am looking into building this one and glad you have detailed it all out for us. I would like a 7-8′ table but I think I am going to have to settle for 6′. Do you think this table has too beefy of a base to make it 6′? Im afraid it would look awkward/stubby. Thoughts?

    1. Hey Matt, I actually think it would still look really good, and not too squat. It’s a solid base for sure, and I might make the distance between the legs a bit shorter in your case, but I think that the lip around the top helps balance things really well. Best of luck and please share when you’ve built it!

  9. Nils,

    I’m currently in the processes of building this table. What exactly are the dimensions for the triangles? Also how did you cut those? Thank you for this awesome table and plans.

    1. Hello Nash, I will have to grab the dimensions when I get home tonight but I really just winged it. I cut them an inch or so shy of the chamfered corner on the foot and then made its height about an inch or so above the center bar of the “H” to cover up the lag bolts there. I used 4×6 sideways, so that the width was the 4″ side. I’ll get those exact dimensions from my table tonight and post them here as a comment.

      1. OK, better late than never. They measure 9 3/4″ on the diagonal side (the longest side) x 3 1/2″ at the bottom x 9″ tall. I used 4×6 lumber to make these. Let me know if you have any questions!

  10. Nils,

    Thanks for the idea and for sharing the plans. It took a lot of work for this novice, but the table came out great! I attached a link to a picture of the finished results.

    Thanks again,


  11. Thank you for posting your projects you are a inspiration. I have just brought myself a new saw to begin making the dining room table….Wish me luck!

    1. Yes, the R3 will work fine. The main difference between the R3 and the other jigs is convenience and, typically as a result, accuracy. For most pocket holes, though they don’t have to be terribly accurate so the R3 will do just fine.

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